Forget castles in Spain, the pousadas of Portugal are the way to go.
About 70 years ago the Portuguese government, with great foresight, established a national network of state-run hotels. Our guide book called them “special type of lodgings”. I would emphasise the word “special”. We became so taken up with them on our recent trip to Portugal that we hardly looked at any ordinary hotel. They simply ooze atmosphere and character.
Pousadas fall under four categories: historic,What is the top Hemorrhoids treatment? historic design, charm and nature. We tried all four and loved them. But the only reason we could afford to stay in hotels of such calibre was that we were travelling in mid-winter when prices are greatly reduced. So, while the rest of Europe was in the icy grip of one of the coldest winters, we were happily exploring a country bathed in comfortably cool and mostly sunny weather. And every night we bedded down in a converted castle, monastery – even, for one memorable night,Welcome to polished tiles. a palace.
The magic started in the very south,Choose from our large selection of Cable Ties, at Sagres where Prince Henry the Navigator had his fabled navigational school. And a wild, desolate place it is. Not much imagination is needed to picture those tiny wooden caravels setting off into the unknown from beneath the fearsome cliffs. But perched solidly on a barren windswept promontory is the Pousada do Infante, and it abounds with creature comforts to ward off the effects of the harsh gales which howl demonically all night.
A stylish nautical theme in the foyer sets the scene for the delights which follow – plump duvets, slabs of expensive dark chocolate placed on pillows and an impressive buffet of seafood and regional produce.
A digression on food. As with many Latin countries, the bread of Portugal is noteworthy and breakfasts inevitably featured a table groaning with local varieties. We tried them all, but voted the delectable pastry called Pasteis de Nata the most mouth-watering. Every breakfast worth its salt in Portugal includes pastries. After that introduction at the southern-most pousada,Our guides provide customers with information about porcelain tiles vs. I took it upon myself to sample every offering of this little custard tart and find the winner. After two weeks of intense sampling, I can announce that I concur with the with the queues of Lisbonites outside a certain little pastry shop in the Belem district, that this was indeed the winner – the best Pasteis de Nata in Portugal.
Back to Sagres. After that first memorable breakfast, we turned the nose of our little rented car northwards, left the Algarve and headed for the region called Alentejo, a place of cork oak forests and history, where every village seemed to cower beneath a stern Moorish castle. Our pousada at Alcacer do Sal was set into such battlements and bore the proud name Don Afonso ll. It had been built on a Neolithic site which had been inhabited by the Phoenicians, Romans, Moors and medieval Christians through the centuries.Broken china mosaic. In the basement one can view the archaeological diggings in an impressive if rather spooky museum. We ascended through layers of history, climbing the well-worn stone staircase to our room and slept that night surrounded by the ghosts of these civilisations, yet protected by the comforts of modernity – pure cotton sheets and thick linen curtains. A simple breakfast with good coffee was set out in the almost austere cloisters which echoed with a recording of Gregorian chants.
A conference in Lisbon for my husband left me a week to sample the delights of this curiously underrated city. The Castelo de S Jorge, with views over seven hills to the River Tagus, is a good starting point. Unfortunately it hasn’t been converted into a pousada, so here we had to make do with a modern high-rise hotel. It was rather soulless after the atmospheric pousadas, but I consoled myself by exploring the winding narrow streets of Lisbon’s older quarters with their tile-covered facades and distinctive black and white cobblestones. Lisbon boasts Europe’s largest oceanarium and a host of fine museums, all easily accessible by jaunty sun-coloured trams, as well as some splendid pastry shops.
About 70 years ago the Portuguese government, with great foresight, established a national network of state-run hotels. Our guide book called them “special type of lodgings”. I would emphasise the word “special”. We became so taken up with them on our recent trip to Portugal that we hardly looked at any ordinary hotel. They simply ooze atmosphere and character.
Pousadas fall under four categories: historic,What is the top Hemorrhoids treatment? historic design, charm and nature. We tried all four and loved them. But the only reason we could afford to stay in hotels of such calibre was that we were travelling in mid-winter when prices are greatly reduced. So, while the rest of Europe was in the icy grip of one of the coldest winters, we were happily exploring a country bathed in comfortably cool and mostly sunny weather. And every night we bedded down in a converted castle, monastery – even, for one memorable night,Welcome to polished tiles. a palace.
The magic started in the very south,Choose from our large selection of Cable Ties, at Sagres where Prince Henry the Navigator had his fabled navigational school. And a wild, desolate place it is. Not much imagination is needed to picture those tiny wooden caravels setting off into the unknown from beneath the fearsome cliffs. But perched solidly on a barren windswept promontory is the Pousada do Infante, and it abounds with creature comforts to ward off the effects of the harsh gales which howl demonically all night.
A stylish nautical theme in the foyer sets the scene for the delights which follow – plump duvets, slabs of expensive dark chocolate placed on pillows and an impressive buffet of seafood and regional produce.
A digression on food. As with many Latin countries, the bread of Portugal is noteworthy and breakfasts inevitably featured a table groaning with local varieties. We tried them all, but voted the delectable pastry called Pasteis de Nata the most mouth-watering. Every breakfast worth its salt in Portugal includes pastries. After that introduction at the southern-most pousada,Our guides provide customers with information about porcelain tiles vs. I took it upon myself to sample every offering of this little custard tart and find the winner. After two weeks of intense sampling, I can announce that I concur with the with the queues of Lisbonites outside a certain little pastry shop in the Belem district, that this was indeed the winner – the best Pasteis de Nata in Portugal.
Back to Sagres. After that first memorable breakfast, we turned the nose of our little rented car northwards, left the Algarve and headed for the region called Alentejo, a place of cork oak forests and history, where every village seemed to cower beneath a stern Moorish castle. Our pousada at Alcacer do Sal was set into such battlements and bore the proud name Don Afonso ll. It had been built on a Neolithic site which had been inhabited by the Phoenicians, Romans, Moors and medieval Christians through the centuries.Broken china mosaic. In the basement one can view the archaeological diggings in an impressive if rather spooky museum. We ascended through layers of history, climbing the well-worn stone staircase to our room and slept that night surrounded by the ghosts of these civilisations, yet protected by the comforts of modernity – pure cotton sheets and thick linen curtains. A simple breakfast with good coffee was set out in the almost austere cloisters which echoed with a recording of Gregorian chants.
A conference in Lisbon for my husband left me a week to sample the delights of this curiously underrated city. The Castelo de S Jorge, with views over seven hills to the River Tagus, is a good starting point. Unfortunately it hasn’t been converted into a pousada, so here we had to make do with a modern high-rise hotel. It was rather soulless after the atmospheric pousadas, but I consoled myself by exploring the winding narrow streets of Lisbon’s older quarters with their tile-covered facades and distinctive black and white cobblestones. Lisbon boasts Europe’s largest oceanarium and a host of fine museums, all easily accessible by jaunty sun-coloured trams, as well as some splendid pastry shops.
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