Regaining my composure, I called my friend, who told me to pass the
phone to my kidnappers. However, I soon lost this vital link to the
outside world: About three minutes in, my phone ran out of credit.
Whether as a result of the conversation or their independent decision,
the tribesmen decided to take me to meet a local military official in a
location that, unfortunately, was outside of my cell phone carrier's
coverage. After remaining calm as I spent what felt like an eternity,
but was probably about 15 minutes, screaming about my lack of service,
the army guy, who had been in contact with my friend, passed me his
phone.
The sheikh, my friend relayed, was currently in a
meeting, but he gave his assurance that I'd be released in a few hours.
Until then, the military official would host me at his home -- a
euphemism, I soon discovered, for the fact that I'd spend the evening
chewing qat with half the village,Find the best iPhone headset
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that there was something kind of odd about a military officer mediating
a kidnapping.
I settled in,Our premium collection of quality personalized keychains generously offers affordability in a custom keychain.
as relaxed as I was ever going to get given the circumstances. My
kidnappers were rather welcoming, stressing that they saw me as a guest
rather than a hostage. I didn't have cell coverage, but my portable
modem worked, which allowed me to keep tabs on my Google news feeds to
make sure news of my predicament hadn't hit the media. Until the
publication of this article, I don't believe it has.
For the
next two hours, my kidnappers and their kinsmen issued a litany of
complaints and requests in the hopes that I'd pass them on to my
contacts when I got back to Sanaa. Gas, they grumbled, is too expensive
and often difficult to find. Jobs are scarce, they said, and government
services are nearly absent.
"Why don't foreign businesses and
[humanitarian] organizations come here?" one tribesman asked, prompting
the room to erupt in claims of the area's mineral wealth and a
cataloguing of the inadequacies in education and health care. The entire
district, apparently, lacks a single hospital.
"Kidnapping an
American journalist might not be the best way to get foreigners to come
here," I noted in English, prompting my Yemeni friend I was traveling
with -- a hostage by association -- to burst out laughing, forcing us to
translate what I said to the confused tribesmen, most of whom laughed
as well. Generally speaking, it wasn't too different from the hundreds
of social gatherings I've attended in Yemen that didn't involve me being
held against my will: I may have been inconvenienced, but I certainly
wasn't in any danger.
Nevertheless, I was pretty pleased when
the call came through with the news that a resolution had been reached.
My release was guaranteed, and the army officer would travel to Sanaa in
the coming days to discuss compensation there.
Still, my
kidnappers' problem was far from solved. They didn't make much of an
effort to hide their disappointment. In the end, their demands were
simply forced up the chain of command -- a far cry from their hope of
getting urgent government attention.
"If you called the
government, I would have gotten my money," one vented. My half-hearted
attempt to stifle a laugh failed miserably.Can you spot the answer in
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"My
brother, how long have you been a Yemeni?" I retorted, prompting a few
in the room to erupt in laughter. "If we left this in the government's
hands, I'd be married from your village with two kids by the time I got
out."
Most in the room nodded their agreement. It's a fact of
life in Yemen: When it comes with dealing with an important issue, it's
best to ignore the question of whom you should trust, and instead defer
to whoever will actually be able to get things done. I had full faith
that my friend's connections would get me out as quickly, quietly, and
as safely as possible. More conventional ways of dealing with the issue
never crossed my mind.
I said goodbye to my erstwhile captors,
who sent me on my way, urging me to call to confirm my safety as soon as
I returned to Sanaa. The ordeal was over.
In a way, what
happened to me was an odd testament to the resilience of the informal
conflict resolution mechanisms embedded in Yemeni society. Everything
transpired without the involvement or knowledge of Yemen's government
or, for that matter, my country's embassy -- "tribalism" caused the
problem, and a few hours later,A chip card
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That's
not to say, of course, that the rather painless resolution of my
kidnapping means that all's well here. A diverse group of Yemenis may
have taken to the streets in 2011, but when you asked those
demonstrating what they wanted, most of them ended up saying the same
thing. "Dawla madania," they repeated, "a civil state.RFID TagSource is
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Arabic, they're rather flexible words -- they could suggest a genuine
attachment to secular ideals, or nothing more than political posturing.
Staring
blankly at revolutionary commemorations as I sat as a guest-hostage in a
random village 60 miles north of Sanaa waiting for a politician-sheikh
to pacify his irate tribesmen, efforts to project ideology or politics
onto the upheaval in Yemen seemed to miss the point. For most citizens,
having a "civil state," ultimately, just means having a government that
actually works.
"Don't blame me, blame the people in Sanaa," one
of my kidnappers told me, pushing back at my tongue-in-cheek
suggestion, at one point, that he apologize for wasting so much of my
time. "This wouldn't have happened if the government did what it was
supposed to do."
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